Ghost Town
Situated at the base of Slievemore, you will find what local journalist John Healy described as a ‘strange haunting village’. Colloquially known as The Deserted Village - all that remains of a once vibrant community is 74 ruins “like a body without hair, without eyes, without flesh and blood – the skeleton of a village…. Everything made of stone eaten away by wind, sun, rain and time.” (Heinrich Böll – Irish Journal). This village is a sad reminder of Ireland’s darkest time – The famine of the mid 1800s. Driven by repeatedly failing crops and a desperate hunger, the people of this village deserted en masse to the nearby village of Dooagh and overseas. The cabins were used as a Booley village up until the early 20th Century - local farmers moved their herds up to higher grounds for pasture during the summer months and used these cabins as temporary accommodation. For a detailed analysis of this village The Deserted Village by Bob Kingston is a great source.
How high?
Did you know that the highest sea cliffs in Europe are here on Achill Island? Standing at 664mt (2178ft) Croaghaun Cliffs are considerably higher than other pretenders to the throne. Unfortunately this natural wonder can only be accessed by boat or by hiking … neither is to be considered an easy option as weather conditions are notoriously unfriendly in these parts. Why not take a drive to Blacksod on the Mullet peninsula and view them safely from a distance with no threat from tricky currents or sweeping winds!
The Atlantic Drive
If you are feeling less than energetic, the ideal way to view Achill is to follow the Atlantic Drive. Take a left just after the church in Mulranny and follow the signs from there. From nail-biting hair-pin bends to roads gently meandering through the traditional villages, you will come away with a true taste of the island.
Brush Strokes
Fancy yourself a bit of an artist? Why don’t you learn to paint or develop your skills on a workshop led by renowned local artist Seosamh Ó Dálaigh. Will you be able to capture the ever-changing Achill sky better than Paul Henry? For more information see: www.achillpainting.com
The Secret Garden
In the midst of the bleak rocky outcrop of Achill, you will be surprised to discover the three acre garden of Bleanáskill Lodge – an oasis of colour and a testament to an ongoing struggle against unfertile land and a harsh salty environment. The gardens are open to the public.
Calling all runners
Every July Achill plays host to the annual Achill Half Marathon. The field has grown considerably over the last few years so if you are interested book your place early. It certainly is an interesting way to go sightseeing…….
Basking Shark Fishery
The Basking Shark is currently undergoing a huge resurgence in Irish waters. They were known locally as the liabhán chor gréine (the great leviathan of the sun) because they appeared in the Achill waters during the summer months to feed on the plankton which grew in abundance here. These gentle creatures were valued for their oil and between 1950 and 1964, 9,000 basking sharks were captured off Keem Bay by fishermen in traditional currachs. The remains of the fishery can still be seen here. The fishery closed down in 1975 as a result of dwindling stocks, probably due to overfishing. If you are lucky enough to spot a dorsal fin in the water, do not be alarmed as these creatures are entirely harmless.
A Tragic Tale Foretold
In the 17th Century a Belmullet mystic Brian Rua O Cearbhain prophesised that “carts on iron wheels” will arrive in Achill and that the first and last will be carrying the dead. Tragically this desperate prediction was to come true with the arrival of the Railway. The old Railway Station can still be seen in Achill Sound today. The first train arrived into this station in 1894, some months before the railway line was officially opened bearing a cargo of 32 bodies of native islanders - the victims of the Clew Bay disaster where an overloaded hooker sank at Westport Quay. These young people had just started the first part of their journey to Scotland where they would spend the summer season picking potatoes to supplement their family income – the few pounds that they would make would ensure their family’s survival.
Although for the greatest part of it’s history, the railway to Achill carried happy holidaymakers, tragedy was to strike again in 1937. On the 16th September ten boys, working as migrant farm labourers in Kirkintilloch in Scotland, were burnt to death in the Bothy that housed them. All ten boys were continuing the Island tradition of potato-harvesting and were on their first year working away. Although the line was closed some months earlier a special service was scheduled to take these boys home to their final resting place.
